Home//Decanter/February 2020/In This Issue
Decanter|February 2020The art of wineThe art of wine Dawn in the vineyard Pernand-Vergelesses, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France As the sun rises over the vineyards of Domaine Chandon de Briailles, a young man prepares the ground with his horse, Prosper. Horses and other livestock play a crucial role in biodynamic vineyard management, ploughing and fertilising the pesticide-free soil. Chandon de Briailles began farming its 13.7ha biodynamically in 2005, and has had full Demeter certification since the 2011 vintage. Prosperous, indeed. Photograph: Jerome Genée…1 min
Decanter|February 2020In briefA nationwide blind tasting conducted by Majestic Wine claims to have revealed the true preferences of British wine drinkers. More than 25,000 people blind-tasted a variety of red and white wines across Majestic’s 200 stores and voted for their favourites. Sicilian red variety Nero d’Avola came top in 78% of stores, while Sauvignon Blanc was the white wine of choice in 68% of stores. A luxury package including lunch or dinner for four at Château Lafite Rothschild sold for more than £11,000 at a Sotheby’s auction held in aid of Cité du Vin Bordeaux wine museum. The auction featured more than 40 lots donated by prestigious wine estates, including Château d’Yquem, Haut-Brion and Penfolds. The 10-day online sale raised about £300,000 to fund Cité du Vin’s 2020 cultural programme. California…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Growing optimismWhile reading the January 2020 issue I came across Dr Richard Smart’s letter and Andrew Jefford’s column on the negative environmental impact of wine production.Nobody can deny that many processes in the wine industry produce high levels of CO2 but what about the positive impacts of the industry?What both writers fail to mention is the amount of oxygen released into the air through plant leaves. On average, leaves produce about 5 millilitres of oxygen per hour. So plants with more leaves produce more oxygen than plants with fewer leaves. In addition, larger leaves produce more oxygen than smaller ones.Taking that into account, and the high number of other trees and plants on most wine estates – plus the amount of CO2 a vine uses to assist in sugar production –…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Growing optimismLetter of the month Growing optimism While reading the January 2020 issue I came across Dr Richard Smart’s letter and Andrew Jefford’s column on the negative environmental impact of wine production. Nobody can deny that many processes in the wine industry produce high levels of CO2 but what about the positive impacts of the industry? What both writers fail to mention is the amount of oxygen released into the air through plant leaves. On average, leaves produce about 5 millilitres of oxygen per hour. So plants with more leaves produce more oxygen than plants with fewer leaves. In addition, larger leaves produce more oxygen than smaller ones. Taking that into account, and the high number of other trees and plants on most wine estates – plus…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Mike BennieThe Barossa Valley is one of my favourite wine regions. Few places better intertwine the mesh of such an unusual viticultural history, old vines, stoic wine styles and global presence, despite how ‘agricultural’ the region feels from within. It is a potent symbol of Australian immigrant nous and tradition – the farmers’ endeavour and struggle, their acceptance of a climate and soil so unfamiliar for grapes.The Barossa is Australiana 101: ruddy earth, baking heat, mobs of kangaroos, screeching local bird life and plots of craggy old vines interspersed between thatches of bushland. The wines, too, reflect this motif. Hardy against the elements, grapes produce muscular, broad-shouldered, bold, rich and warm wines. Ink-glazed glasses result from Barossa Shiraz sloshed in – palates and teeth stained with sluices of dark fruit, spice…3 min
Decanter|February 2020WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTHWHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH I’ve been back in Alsace over the last week, which meant a chance to catch up with one of my favourite grape varieties on home soil: Gewurztraminer. Few Alsace growers are more skilled at vinifying it than Félix Meyer of Meyer-Fonné, and his Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf 2015, from the Ammerschwihr grand cru of the same name, was everything I hope for: creamy, mushroomy, gingery, rich and liquorous on the tongue, fire-free, stone-freshened at the end. A seamless, supple treat; completely enchanting.…1 min
Decanter|February 2020SHANGHAI FINE WINE ENCOUNTERAt our sixth annual gathering in China, 1,200 eager guests joined more than 160 top wine producers from 17 countries at The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong, for a day of wine discovery. More than 600 wines were poured, with Australia as the featured region of 2019Photographs: Ben Hu, ZHU Dicheng…1 min
Decanter|February 2020BURGUNDY 2018Historic is a word that has been widely employed to describe Burgundy’s 2018 vintage. It was certainly a year of extreme weather – the hottest since 2003 – and of large volumes, particularly for white wines. Some have compared 2018 to the semi-mythical 1947, while at least one UK importer has claimed that many domaines have produced their ‘finest-ever’ reds. The truth, as it invariably is in Burgundy, is much more complicated.There were two key factors. The first was the wet and mostly mild winter. February was dry and cold, but otherwise the period from November 2017 to March 2018 was marked by well above-average rainfall. This meant the water table was high and the soils had plenty of precious humidity, not the case in 2003. The second key factor…8 min
Decanter|February 2020ON THE RISE: low- and no-alcohol wineLike Brexit, Trump and Marmite, some things in life seem destined to be controversial. Two of them came together recently when the UK’s Football Association decreed that winners of the 2019 FA Cup, in a break with tradition, would not be awarded Champagne but ‘a non-alcoholic Champagne’ alternative. Needless to say, the announcement provoked much coverage and debate.Low- and no-alcohol wine is something of an enigma. Legally, it doesn’t exist – officially, ‘wine’ should contain a minimum of 8% alcohol by volume (abv) unless specifically exempted. It tends to generate heated opinion. Traditionalists decry it as a needless abomination; others see it as an exciting part of wine’s future. Many rightly criticise lacklustre quality from examples to date.There’s also a lack of clarity about what ‘low and no alcohol’ actually…7 min
Decanter|February 2020SHANGHAI FINE WINE ENCOUNTEREvents SHANGHAI FINE WINE ENCOUNTER At our sixth annual gathering in China, 1,200 eager guests joined more than 160 top wine producers from 17 countries at The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong, for a day of wine discovery. More than 600 wines were poured, with Australia as the featured region of 2019 Photographs: Ben Hu, ZHU Dicheng…1 min
Decanter|February 2020A taste of the top 2018 BurgundiesA taste of the top 2018 Burgundies Wines are listed by commune, from north to south, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. The 2018s are bottled in January 2020, hence prices and stockists are not yet set. Contact specialist merchants for allocations, or to enquire about en primeur tastings Gevrey-Chambertin RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine Dugat-Py, Grand Cru Chambertin 99 The only thing wrong with this incredible wine – my red Burgundy for the second year running – is that there’s so little of it: 200 litres to be precise. It’s pricey at €550 a bottle, but close to Pinot Noir perfection. Fermented with 90% whole bunches and aged in a single new barrel, it’s a stunning, old-vine cuvée. So fresh, so poised, so complex, so long,…24 min
Decanter|February 2020THE WORLD’S BEST WINE FESTIVALSWith a growing audience of wine lovers, wine festivals are big business these days. Almost every wine region hosts its own celebration. Often they are combined with food to create a grand gastronomic experience. Others, such as the annual Marciac jazz festival in France (see p65), combine wine with music.Some are inspired by a single grape variety. Pinot Noir seems to be the most popular, with big Pinot celebrations in Oregon, Alsace and the Hemel-en-Aarde region of South Africa. Riesling also gets some attention, with the Riesling Rendezvous being held in Seattle every third year (2019’s event was postponed to 2020: see https://flxcursion.com/wp).Not all wine events are huge. The annual (or near-annual) Fête du Vin in the tiny hamlet of Chassignolles in Auvergne only has about 10 stands manned by…10 min
Decanter|February 2020My top 10 in Montreal1 CapsaHow often can you go out for brunch and be offered a glass of fino to pair with your plate? Owned by a Québecois chef and a Portuguese sommelier, Capsa offers a typical brunch menu with a delectable Portuguese touch in a downtown setting. The result is delicious and savoury! www.capsabox.com2 ManitobaChef Simon Mathys aims to help Montrealers reconnect with and discover the food of Canada’s First Nations. The main dish here is prepared with seal,3 Taverne Square DominionLocated in the heart of Montreal since 1927, the atmosphere of this tavern is both fancy and casual at the same time. The extended wine list boasts selections of Burgundy and Bordeaux classics, some rare German and even Quebecois wines to pair with French bistro cuisine. And it’s a known go-to…3 min
Decanter|February 2020WHERE TO STAY IN NAPA: from budget to blow-outCalifornia WHERE TO STAY IN NAPA: from budget to blow-out Helena Nicklin seeks out the best accommodation options in the heart of Californian wine country, to suit every traveller’s needs California’s Napa Valley has long been the ultimate destination for hedonistic oenotourists, with some accommodation options reaching US$6,000 a night. While there are still mind-blowing, luxurious stays that cost more than a month’s salary, there are also many more places to choose from, each offering something a little different – and not all of them will blow the budget. Busy times tend to be around harvest, from August to November, so be sure to book in advance if you want to travel then (and be prepared for the inevitable eye-watering price hikes). Quieter times are between March and May. You…9 min
Decanter|February 2020THE VERDICTWhile ‘Pinot Noir’ on the wine label is enough of a lure for most wine lovers, what unique selling point do the additional words ‘single vineyard’ provide?The consensus among our judges was that a single vineyard is the New World’s version of a ‘climat’ in Burgundy – a specific parcel of vines – and that labelling a bottle with a single-vineyard designation implied that it was of higher quality than a producer’s ‘basic’ Pinot Noir.‘It indicates this is a producer’s best-quality fruit,’ explained James Doidge. ‘This is the wine they will spend the most time and energy on because it will be the reference point for the estate’s ultimate quality.’Dirceu Vianna Junior MW felt the term helped the ‘real wine lover’ who wanted to know the story behind the wine.…19 min
Decanter|February 2020THE FACTS (2018 figures)CornasAppellation granted 1938Area 150ha in productionAverage yield 33hl/haGrapes Red wine only appellation 100% SyrahCôte-RôtieAppellation granted 1940Area 319ha in productionAverage yield 40hl/haGrapes Red wine only minimum 80% Syrah, with a maximum 20% ViognierHermitageAppellation granted 1937Area 136ha in productionAverage yield 38hl/ha; 70% red wine, 30% white wine in 2018Grapes Reds Minimum 85% Syrah, with a maximum 15% Roussanne and/or Marsanne Whites Roussanne and/or Marsanne permitted…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Steven Spurrier’s FINE WINE WORLDSteven Spurrier’s FINE WINE WORLD Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others for laying down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Château Rieussec, Sauternes 1CC 1990 The wines, all presented by members, at the 185th dinner of the Saintsbury Club last October surpassed our usually high expectations. A grandiose Pol Roger 2002 Vintage Champagne from magnums set the tone for two fine Chablis – magnums of Jean Dauvissat’s 1er Cru Fourchaume 2013 and Moreau-Naudet’s Grand Cru Valmur 2012 – while the two clarets that accompanied the fillet of beef were even more impressive. Château Léoville-Barton 1996 (presented by Anthony Barton) was superbly classic St-Julien, totally Barton with a decade and more in front of…2 min
Decanter|February 2020VioletViolet is generally picked up as an aroma in wine, but it can be a flavour too — as anyone with a penchant for the British-made Parma Violet sweets will know. Violet commonly displays a musky sweetness on the nose, but tastes a touch more bitter and austere. In this way, it can be aligned with other bittersweet and perfumed floral notes such as bergamot, rose, geranium and lavender. Just like perfume, it’s a matter of preference whether you find violet flavours and aromas off-putting or appealing in wines.The distinctive scent and flavour comes from two chemical compounds, α-ionone and β-ionone, which are also used in the confectionery and in perfumery products derived from violets.It crops up in a broad range of full-bodied tannic red wine styles with high acidity,…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Release price up 7% for sought-after Vega Sicilia Unico 2010Vega Sicilia has released its Unico, Ribera del Duero 2010 priced at about £672 per three bottles, or £2,688 for 12 in bond (ib), said Liv-ex.Sarah Jane Evans MW rated the Unico 2010 at 98 points after tasting the Tempranillodominant wine for Decanter Premium. She previously gave 97 points to Unico 2009, which was priced slightly lower as Decanter went to press. Farr Vintners was selling the 2009 at £2,450 (ib) for a 12-bottle case.For drinking soon, Evans also recently said Unico 1999 was ‘entering its best moments’. London merchant BI Wines & Spirits was selling it at £3,500 (ib) per 12-bottle case.Read tasting notes for Vega Sicilia’s new releases online atDecanter.com/premiumPhotographs: Imagebroker/Alamy; www.the-buyer.net…1 min
Decanter|February 2020THE VERDICTPanel tasting THE VERDICT While some top regions were under-represented, the many higher-scorers showed good varietal character and regional individuality, and there were few disappointments, as Tina Gellie reports While ‘Pinot Noir’ on the wine label is enough of a lure for most wine lovers, what unique selling point do the additional words ‘single vineyard’ provide? The consensus among our judges was that a single vineyard is the New World’s version of a ‘climat’ in Burgundy – a specific parcel of vines – and that labelling a bottle with a single-vineyard designation implied that it was of higher quality than a producer’s ‘basic’ Pinot Noir. ‘It indicates this is a producer’s best-quality fruit,’ explained James Doidge. ‘This is the wine they will spend the most time and energy on because…16 min
Decanter|February 2020THE VERDICTPanel tasting THE VERDICT A small field it may have been, but these maturing Rhônes left our three judges highly impressed, says Vahan Agulian. Crack open your Cornas, consider the Côte-Rôties, but hang on to your Hermitage The 2010 vintage was one of the most hyped vintages at the time in the northern Rhône’, Matt Walls recalled. ‘It was the most impressive vintage I’ve ever tasted young.’ But, 10 years down the line, how has the evolution of these wines progressed? Are they ready to drink, to keep, or simply past their best? Walls remembered that ‘for such a structured vintage, I didn’t know when the best time would be to drink them’, and Christian Honorez also had his doubts at first, believing this tasting might be ‘quite limited’. ‘For…13 min
Decanter|February 2020Decanter fine wine price watchDecanter fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in green indicate those prices which have increased since last month, whilst the numbers in red have decreased. BORDEAUX PRICES THE LIV-EX 100 INDEX Index level at end of November 2019 304.42|-1.28% The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Month in wineUS ramps up French wine tariff disputeThreats from US officials to impose wine import tariffs of ‘up to 100%’ on Champagne and sparkling wines from France have sparked frustration among French export bodies and producers as trade conflicts continue to target their industry.The tax increases were proposed as a retaliation to France’s digital services tax, which is said by the Office of the US Trade Representative (USTR) to ‘discriminate against’ US tech companies.Totalling $2.4bn, the tariffs would target premium French products including handbags, Roquefort cheese and ‘sparkling wine made from grapes’, according to a provisional list released by the US government.Under these conditions, Champagne producers would face higher barriers to the fast-growing US market than the producers of French still wine who were hit by a 25% import tariff enacted…4 min
Decanter|February 2020Your lettersSpreading the messageDr Richard Smart is a distinguished wine consultant with a long history of warning about the effects of climate change (he was kind enough to contribute to the first article I wrote for Decanter on the subject, in 2005).But the criticisms of Decanter in his letter in the last edition are neither accurate nor fair. Decanter has been highlighting the issue for years. In the past year, it has published magazine articles exploring the environmental impact of wine production (‘Wine: a sustainable option?’, April 2019); the need for the wine industry to play a leading role in mitigating climate change (‘Climate change: time to act’, July 2019), as well as website articles stressing the need for the wine industry to act (see, for example, ‘Al Gore tells wine…3 min
Decanter|February 2020Your lettersLetters Your letters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Email editor@decanter.com, or write to: The Editor, Decanter, 1st Floor, 161 Marsh Wall, London E14 9AP, UK Spreading the message Dr Richard Smart is a distinguished wine consultant with a long history of warning about the effects of climate change (he was kind enough to contribute to the first article I wrote for Decanter on the subject, in 2005). But the criticisms of Decanter in his letter in the last edition are neither accurate nor fair. Decanter has been highlighting the issue for years. In the past year, it has published magazine articles exploring the environmental impact of wine production (‘Wine: a sustainable option?’, April 2019); the need for the wine industry to play a leading role in mitigating climate…3 min
Decanter|February 2020WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTHI’ve been back in Alsace over the last week, which meant a chance to catch up with one of my favourite grape varieties on home soil: Gewurztraminer. Few Alsace growers are more skilled at vinifying it than Félix Meyer of Meyer-Fonné, and his Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf 2015, from the Ammerschwihr grand cru of the same name, was everything I hope for: creamy, mushroomy, gingery, rich and liquorous on the tongue, fire-free, stone-freshened at the end. A seamless, supple treat; completely enchanting.…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Andrew JeffordAndrew Jefford ‘Roussillon would be where I’d set about hunting for absolute grandeur...’ Come May, it will be 10 years since my family and I moved to the Languedoc. I feel guilty for not having explored it more thoroughly; columnists, though, have to roam widely. My colleague Rosemary George MW (whose useful Wines of the Languedoc was published in 2018) knows it better than I do, so I always enjoy comparing notes – and tramping the hills – with Rosemary and her husband Christopher. A couple of tastings last year, though, gave me the chance to think more deeply about progress in this part of the world. One of these was a survey of vintage 2010 from Pic St-Loup (24 samples), St-Chinian (29 samples) and Roussillon (37 samples), to see…3 min
Decanter|February 2020Jane AnsonJane Anson ‘Getting to know a wine estate is like getting to know a person’ Photograph: John O’Brien Roland Barthes’ The Death of the Author was a big deal when I was an English literature student at Sheffield University in the 1990s. It led to regular debates as to whether you had to know the writer’s own history to fully understand his or her book, or whether that information was superfluous and simply a distraction. Weirdly, the same question often arises over wine. Is the only way to truly understand a wine to visit the vineyard in person, to walk the vines and poke around under the hood? Or can you understand it simply through what you find in the glass, ideally helped by speaking to the people who made…3 min
Decanter|February 2020SHANGHAI: DECANTER WINE LEGENDS ROOMRecaredo, Turó d’en Mota, Cava, Catalonia, Spain 2001The 1999 vintage was the first for this groundbreaking Penedès sparkling wine – produced since 2006 under the new Corpinnat banner. It is aged on the yeasts for 11 years or more. This 2001 is fully dry, mature and rounded, nutty and suave with fine depth and texture. 2004 also shown. (1999 featured in Wine Legends, March 2018 issue) Drink 2020-2025 Alc 12%Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneufdu-Pape, Rhône, France 2001Charming, seductive nose, raspberry and cherry with damp leaves and tobacco. The attack is supple but rich, full-bodied and succulent. The tannins are beautifully polished and balanced by fine acidity. Very elegant for Châteauneuf – panache and persistence, and a long, peppery finish. 1990 vintage also shown. (1981, April 2016) Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14.5%Château Montrose,…6 min
Decanter|February 2020WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTHWHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Sami-Odi, Little Wine #8 is a Barossa Shiraz blend vinified from 2018 (48%), 2017 (29%), 2016 (12%), 2015 (9%) and 2012 (2%), sourced from the Hoffmann Dallwitz vineyard. It’s a supple wine of distinct and voluminous perfume, showing violets, sweet spice, peppered charcuterie and brambly herbs. The dark fruit-laced palate feels supple and succulent, yet cool in acidity, with more of a herbal-briar detail. It is inherently delicious, as well as definitively complex. A remarkable, intriguing and original wine (£59 Swig).…1 min
Decanter|February 2020PROSECCO SUPERIORE: MY TOP 20The capital city of Azerbaijan was an unlikely location to safeguard the future of the Prosecco Superiore zone, but in Baku in July 2019 the steep hills of Valdobbiadene and the rolling slopes of Conegliano were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. Verdant terraces curve across its slopes and Inca temple-like mounds, looking down upon more orderly rows of vines on the plains towards Treviso. It is not only higher elevations that distinguish these hillside vineyards from their flatland counterparts (and their UNESCO stamp of approval) but the superior quality of the wines.It’s now 50 years since the zones of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene achieved protection in the form of a denomination, and the success of the region’s Glera-based bubbles continues. A total of 556 million bottles bearing the Prosecco name were…8 min
Decanter|February 2020Low & no: how it’s madeLow & no: how it’s made Photographs: www.eresson.com; NurPhoto/Getty Images Fermentation is a transformative process. It doesn’t just produce alcohol but also myriad aromas, flavours and textures. The real challenge of making low- and no-alcohol wine is thus about how to remove the alcohol from a fermented juice (which can typically be 13%-14% alcohol by volume) without impairing mouthfeel, balance, typicity and quality. It’s not easy. There are three main methods currently in use. Vacuum distillation sees alcohol and other volatiles removed at a relatively low temperature (25°C-30°C), with aromatics blended back in afterwards. Spinning cone columns are not dissimilar, but involve repeated low-temperature evaporation and condensation using inverted cones and centrifugal forces. They are swift and highly efficient in separating constituent elements, which are then blended back together. Both…1 min
Decanter|February 2020MONTALCINO: a wine and food lover’s guideMontalcino is a superstar wine region, fortuitously well off the beaten track. Unspoiled, with no motorway nearby, the most ubiquitous through-traffic is human-powered. Steady streams of pilgrims plod the ancient Francigena byway crossing Montalcino, heading south to Rome’s Vatican. Packs of Lycra-clad cyclists pedal themselves to exhaustion along the bumpy chalk byways of the Eroica (or ‘Heroic’) Route. And wine lovers come to taste the world’s most famed 100% Sangiovese red wines, the oak-aged Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, and its earlier-bottled, no-oak-needed sibling Rosso di Montalcino DOC.‘Shielded by Monte Amiata, Montalcino is a warm, luminous, breezy spot’Montalcino’s name derives from Monte Leccio (‘holm oak hill’). Evergreen oak forests cover more land here now than they did in 1860. They host roebuck, edible mushrooms, wild asparagus, truffles and wild boar: fare…8 min
Decanter|February 2020MY MONTREALThere is no denying the eclectic vibe of Montreal. Vast cultural diversity has greatly influenced the flair and innovation of our gastronomic creations – one of Montreal’s greatest strengths. You can dine somewhere new every night of the year, never visiting the same place twice. In the last decade, Montreal has become one of the most renowned gastronomic destinations in the world, due in part to its famous chefs – names such as Normand Laprise, Martin Picard, Marie-Fleur St-Pierre and Charles-Antoine Crête.Montreal is a mecca for poutine: a Quebecois dish made of fresh-cut french fries topped with cheese curds and gravy that first appeared in 1950s rural Quebec and is now widely popularised across Canada. But there’s much more to discover beyond this delicious Canadian specialty. This island city has…2 min
Decanter|February 2020NEW WORLD SINGLE-VINEYARD PINOT NOIRThe marriage between Pinot Noir and the complex array of soils created by a geological fault that formed the low hills facing east across the Saône plain has helped give Burgundy its reputation as one of the world’s greatest wine-producing regions. And for decades New World producers have been pursuing the magic that red Burgundy can achieve.Pinot Noir was first planted in Oregon in the early 1960s. In 1968, Chile’s search for cooler areas identified Chimbarongo in Colchagua Valley as the best spot for the variety at that time. Many other countries outside Europe joined the quest to make great Pinot Noir, including New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Canada, Argentina and more recently Uruguay and Brazil.Confident stridesBurgundy remains the benchmark for quality and style. Many estates still seek to emulate…2 min
Decanter|February 2020THE JUDGESJames DoidgeDoidge has been involved in the wine trade for his entire career. In 2002 he became managing director and buyer for The Wine Treasury, a London-based importer specialising in New World wineries, with a particular focus on partnerships with top producers in California, Oregon and Washington State.Roger JonesJones owns award-winning restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, together with his wife Sue. Both a wine critic and Michelin-starred chef, he frequently visits Australia to promote food and wine pairing, and set up The Tri Nations Wine Challenge to promote wines from South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.Dirceu Vianna Junior MWOriginally from Brazil, Vianna studied forest engineering and law, before moving to London, where he began to work in the wine trade in 1990. In 2008, he became the first South…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Your Montalcino address bookYour Montalcino address book ACCOMMODATION Hotel Vecchia Oliviera www.vecchiaoliviera.com Il Rifugio d’Altri Tempi www.rifugiodaltritempi.it Hotel dei Capitani www.deicapitani.it La Suite Corso Matteotti 37, Via Giacomo Matteotti 37, 53024 Montalcino Affittacamere Mariuccia, Piazza del Popolo 28, 53024 Montalcino Villa Palazzetta www.villapalazzetta.com Montalcino Townhouse www.montalcinotownhouse.com Cordella Montalcino Wine Resort www.cordellavini.it Casanova di Neri www.casanovadinerirelais.com Canalicchio di Sopra www.canalicchiodisoprawinerelais.it Capanna Wine Relais www.capannamontalcino.com Mastrojanni Relais www.mastrojanni.com Locanda Sant’Antimo www.locandasantantimo.it Le Ragnaie www.leragnaie.com Podere Il Cocco www.ilcocco.it Villa le Prata www.villaleprata.com Tenuta di Argiano www.argianodimore.it RESTAURANTS Albergo Il Giglio www.gigliohotel.com Osticcio www.osticcio.it Boccon DiVino www.boccondivinomontalcino.it Vineria Le Potazzine www.lepotazzine.com Alle Logge di Piazza, Piazza del Popolo 1, 53024 Montalcino Caffè La Fortezza, Viale della Liberta 6, 53024 Montalcino Petto’s Pizza, Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 1, 53024 Montalcino Il Marrucheto, Via della Stazione 7, Sant’Angelo ScaIo,…1 min
Decanter|February 2020My top 10 in MontrealMy top 10 in Montreal 1 Capsa How often can you go out for brunch and be offered a glass of fino to pair with your plate? Owned by a Québecois chef and a Portuguese sommelier, Capsa offers a typical brunch menu with a delectable Portuguese touch in a downtown setting. The result is delicious and savoury! www.capsabox.com 2 Manitoba Chef Simon Mathys aims to help Montrealers reconnect with and discover the food of Canada’s First Nations. The main dish here is prepared with seal, 3 Taverne Square Dominion Located in the heart of Montreal since 1927, the atmosphere of this tavern is both fancy and casual at the same time. The extended wine list boasts selections of Burgundy and Bordeaux classics, some rare German and even…3 min
Decanter|February 2020THE VERDICTThe 2010 vintage was one of the most hyped vintages at the time in the northern Rhône’, Matt Walls recalled. ‘It was the most impressive vintage I’ve ever tasted young.’ But, 10 years down the line, how has the evolution of these wines progressed? Are they ready to drink, to keep, or simply past their best?Walls remembered that ‘for such a structured vintage, I didn’t know when the best time would be to drink them’, and Christian Honorez also had his doubts at first, believing this tasting might be ‘quite limited’. ‘For me, uniformly I thought the 2010 vintage was better in the southern Rhône,’ he said, ‘but today I’ve changed my mind – it’s just as good and exceptional in the north, or even possibly better.’On this occasion, the…15 min
Decanter|February 2020NEW WORLD SINGLE-VINEYARD PINOT NOIRPanel tasting NEW WORLD SINGLE-VINEYARD PINOT NOIR Burgundy dreamers? Many winemakers beyond Europe now have the know-how and the quality of fruit to produce Pinot Noirs that truly reflect their own local terroirs, says Dirceu Vianna Junior MW The marriage between Pinot Noir and the complex array of soils created by a geological fault that formed the low hills facing east across the Saône plain has helped give Burgundy its reputation as one of the world’s greatest wine-producing regions. And for decades New World producers have been pursuing the magic that red Burgundy can achieve. Pinot Noir was first planted in Oregon in the early 1960s. In 1968, Chile’s search for cooler areas identified Chimbarongo in Colchagua Valley as the best spot for the variety at that time. Many other…2 min
Decanter|February 2020PINOT NOIR AND SINGLE-SITE EXPRESSIONPINOT NOIR AND SINGLE-SITE EXPRESSION Pinot Noir is the quintessential interpreter of terroir due to its ability to capture nuances of the land where it is grown. It is a demanding variety, both in the vineyard and the cellar. As long as vines are well established, yields kept at suitable levels and there is no excessive use of winemaking trickery, it is capable of retaining varietal expression, exuding elegance and conveying a sense of place. A single vineyard can have an essential impact on the wine’s character. Pinot Noir from loess soils is often lighter and elegant; granite soils contribute to wines that are linear, angular and display attractive mineral notes; whereas red clay is responsible for wines that are rounder and plump. To respect single-vineyard characteristics, producers are increasingly…1 min
Decanter|February 2020THE JUDGESTHE JUDGES James Doidge Doidge has been involved in the wine trade for his entire career. In 2002 he became managing director and buyer for The Wine Treasury, a London-based importer specialising in New World wineries, with a particular focus on partnerships with top producers in California, Oregon and Washington State. Roger Jones Jones owns award-winning restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, together with his wife Sue. Both a wine critic and Michelin-starred chef, he frequently visits Australia to promote food and wine pairing, and set up The Tri Nations Wine Challenge to promote wines from South Africa, New Zealand and Australia. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW Originally from Brazil, Vianna studied forest engineering and law, before moving to London, where he began to work in the wine trade in 1990.…1 min
Decanter|February 2020NORTHERN RHONES: THE 2010 VINTAGENORTHERN RHONES: THE 2010 VINTAGE Map: Maggie Nelson The winter of 2009/2010 was exceptionally cold and spring came late. Conditions weren’t perfect; there was localised hail and minor outbreaks of downy and powdery mildew after a damp spring. Poor fruit set further thinned out the crop, and final yields were small. Summer 2010 was hot but not excessive, and producers picked the grapes late into the autumn under fine, dry conditions. At the time, many considered the southern Rhône to have fared better than the north, but the resulting wines show that 2010 is a superlative vintage for both. The Côte-Rôties we tasted were almost all ready to drink now, and most will happily last until 2025, some past 2030. Cornas from 2010 is approaching readiness, but for the best…1 min
Decanter|February 2020VioletTASTING NOTES DECODED Violet Written by Laura Seal Violet is generally picked up as an aroma in wine, but it can be a flavour too — as anyone with a penchant for the British-made Parma Violet sweets will know. Violet commonly displays a musky sweetness on the nose, but tastes a touch more bitter and austere. In this way, it can be aligned with other bittersweet and perfumed floral notes such as bergamot, rose, geranium and lavender. Just like perfume, it’s a matter of preference whether you find violet flavours and aromas off-putting or appealing in wines. The distinctive scent and flavour comes from two chemical compounds, α-ionone and β-ionone, which are also used in the confectionery and in perfumery products derived from violets. It crops up in a broad…1 min
Decanter|February 2020JIM BARRY, THE ARMAGH 1999JIM BARRY, THE ARMAGH 1999 Clare Valley, South Australia A legend because… The heartland of Australian Shiraz is usually considered to be the Barossa Valley, but other regions have shown they can also produce outstanding wines from this variety. Jim Barry, a Clare Valley pioneer, established his winery in 1959. In 1968 he planted Shiraz vines in the Armagh region, which led to the creation of The Armagh 17 years later. The name is a tribute to the place and to the Irish settlers who came here from 1849 onwards. Barry intended the wine to be a challenger to the iconic Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace, and it was priced between them on release. The Armagh has been made in most vintages, but there were years when none…3 min
Decanter|February 2020Month in wineNews Month in wine All the important issues affecting you across the globe, compiled by Laura Seal US ramps up French wine tariff dispute Photograph: Olivier Douliery/Getty Threats from US officials to impose wine import tariffs of ‘up to 100%’ on Champagne and sparkling wines from France have sparked frustration among French export bodies and producers as trade conflicts continue to target their industry. The tax increases were proposed as a retaliation to France’s digital services tax, which is said by the Office of the US Trade Representative (USTR) to ‘discriminate against’ US tech companies. Totalling $2.4bn, the tariffs would target premium French products including handbags, Roquefort cheese and ‘sparkling wine made from grapes’, according to a provisional list released by the US government. Under these conditions, Champagne producers would…4 min
Decanter|February 2020In briefIn brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ A nationwide blind tasting conducted by Majestic Wine claims to have revealed the true preferences of British wine drinkers. More than 25,000 people blind-tasted a variety of red and white wines across Majestic’s 200 stores and voted for their favourites. Sicilian red variety Nero d’Avola came top in 78% of stores, while Sauvignon Blanc was the white wine of choice in 68% of stores. ■ A luxury package including lunch or dinner for four at Château Lafite Rothschild sold for more than £11,000 at a Sotheby’s auction held in aid of Cité du Vin Bordeaux wine museum. The auction featured more than 40 lots donated by prestigious wine…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Andrew JeffordCome May, it will be 10 years since my family and I moved to the Languedoc. I feel guilty for not having explored it more thoroughly; columnists, though, have to roam widely. My colleague Rosemary George MW (whose useful Wines of the Languedoc was published in 2018) knows it better than I do, so I always enjoy comparing notes – and tramping the hills – with Rosemary and her husband Christopher. A couple of tastings last year, though, gave me the chance to think more deeply about progress in this part of the world.One of these was a survey of vintage 2010 from Pic St-Loup (24 samples), St-Chinian (29 samples) and Roussillon (37 samples), to see how they had aged. That was our first summer here, and it may well…3 min
Decanter|February 2020Jane AnsonRoland Barthes’ The Death of the Author was a big deal when I was an English literature student at Sheffield University in the 1990s. It led to regular debates as to whether you had to know the writer’s own history to fully understand his or her book, or whether that information was superfluous and simply a distraction.Weirdly, the same question often arises over wine. Is the only way to truly understand a wine to visit the vineyard in person, to walk the vines and poke around under the hood? Or can you understand it simply through what you find in the glass, ideally helped by speaking to the people who made it?I got to try both ways recently, meeting two different producers: Aristea, a South African estate co-owned by English…3 min
Decanter|February 2020WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTHSami-Odi, Little Wine #8 is a Barossa Shiraz blend vinified from 2018 (48%), 2017 (29%), 2016 (12%), 2015 (9%) and 2012 (2%), sourced from the Hoffmann Dallwitz vineyard. It’s a supple wine of distinct and voluminous perfume, showing violets, sweet spice, peppered charcuterie and brambly herbs. The dark fruit-laced palate feels supple and succulent, yet cool in acidity, with more of a herbal-briar detail. It is inherently delicious, as well as definitively complex. A remarkable, intriguing and original wine (£59 Swig).…1 min
Decanter|February 2020Mike BennieLetter from Barossa Mike Bennie ‘A younger generation has begun to reinterpret the vinous landscape’ The Barossa Valley is one of my favourite wine regions. Few places better intertwine the mesh of such an unusual viticultural history, old vines, stoic wine styles and global presence, despite how ‘agricultural’ the region feels from within. It is a potent symbol of Australian immigrant nous and tradition – the farmers’ endeavour and struggle, their acceptance of a climate and soil so unfamiliar for grapes. The Barossa is Australiana 101: ruddy earth, baking heat, mobs of kangaroos, screeching local bird life and plots of craggy old vines interspersed between thatches of bushland. The wines, too, reflect this motif. Hardy against the elements, grapes produce muscular, broad-shouldered, bold, rich and warm wines. Ink-glazed glasses result…3 min
Decanter|February 2020A taste of the top 2018 BurgundiesGevrey-ChambertinRED WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine Dugat-Py, Grand Cru Chambertin 99The only thing wrong with this incredible wine – my red Burgundy for the second year running – is that there’s so little of it: 200 litres to be precise. It’s pricey at €550 a bottle, but close to Pinot Noir perfection. Fermented with 90% whole bunches and aged in a single new barrel, it’s a stunning, old-vine cuvée. So fresh, so poised, so complex, so long, with spice and summer flower aromas, textured, fine-grained tannins and a chalky, red berry-infused finish. Drink 2024-2038 Alcohol 13%1 TOP QUALITY Domaine Armand Rousseau, Grand Cru Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 97Plush, textured and grippy, this has understated richness, sinewy tannins, well-integrated 100% new wood and a chalky, refreshing finish. The Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru also…28 min
Decanter|February 2020SHANGHAI: DECANTER WINE LEGENDS ROOMEvents SHANGHAI: DECANTER WINE LEGENDS ROOM One highlight for visitors at this year’s Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter was a chance, for the first time, to taste superb wines by producers featured on our Decanter Wine Legends page in issues going back to 2011. Including some of the vintages originally featured and some more recent, Stephen Brook tasted the wines that topped the bill in Pudong in November... Recaredo, Turó d’en Mota, Cava, Catalonia, Spain 2001 The 1999 vintage was the first for this groundbreaking Penedès sparkling wine – produced since 2006 under the new Corpinnat banner. It is aged on the yeasts for 11 years or more. This 2001 is fully dry, mature and rounded, nutty and suave with fine depth and texture. 2004 also shown. (1999 featured in Wine…5 min
Decanter|February 2020BURGUNDY 2018Vintage preview BURGUNDY 2018 A hard vintage to generalise about, due to individual estates’ reactions to the extreme weather. So, more than ever, says Tim Atkin MW, it pays to know your producer and choose carefully. Here he gives an in-depth analysis of the vintage and picks out 100 top-scoring and best-value reds and whites from across the communes Photograph: Jon Arnold Images Ltd/Alamy Stock Photo Historic is a word that has been widely employed to describe Burgundy’s 2018 vintage. It was certainly a year of extreme weather – the hottest since 2003 – and of large volumes, particularly for white wines. Some have compared 2018 to the semi-mythical 1947, while at least one UK importer has claimed that many domaines have produced their ‘finest-ever’ reds. The truth, as it…7 min
Decanter|February 2020ON THE RISE: low- and no-alcohol wineConsumer trends ON THE RISE: low- and no-alcohol wine As a growing number of people in the UK choose to drink ‘less and better’, the universe of low- and no-alcohol beverages is rapidly expanding and improving. Can the wine category keep up? Peter Richards MW investigates Like Brexit, Trump and Marmite, some things in life seem destined to be controversial. Two of them came together recently when the UK’s Football Association decreed that winners of the 2019 FA Cup, in a break with tradition, would not be awarded Champagne but ‘a non-alcoholic Champagne’ alternative. Needless to say, the announcement provoked much coverage and debate. Low- and no-alcohol wine is something of an enigma. Legally, it doesn’t exist – officially, ‘wine’ should contain a minimum of 8% alcohol by volume (abv)…7 min
Decanter|February 2020WHERE TO STAY IN NAPA: from budget to blow-outCalifornia’s Napa Valley has long been the ultimate destination for hedonistic oenotourists, with some accommodation options reaching US$6,000 a night. While there are still mind-blowing, luxurious stays that cost more than a month’s salary, there are also many more places to choose from, each offering something a little different – and not all of them will blow the budget.Busy times tend to be around harvest, from August to November, so be sure to book in advance if you want to travel then (and be prepared for the inevitable eye-watering price hikes). Quieter times are between March and May. You may not see grapes on the vines, but crowds are smaller, it’s sunny, and the vine flowers will be out in all their glory.Food is a huge focus in the region,…10 min
Decanter|February 2020Your Montalcino address bookACCOMMODATIONHotel Vecchia Oliviera www.vecchiaoliviera.comIl Rifugio d’Altri Tempi www.rifugiodaltritempi.itHotel dei Capitani www.deicapitani.itLa Suite Corso Matteotti 37, Via Giacomo Matteotti 37, 53024 MontalcinoAffittacamere Mariuccia, Piazza del Popolo 28, 53024 MontalcinoVilla Palazzetta www.villapalazzetta.comMontalcino Townhouse www.montalcinotownhouse.comCordella Montalcino Wine Resort www.cordellavini.itCasanova di Neri www.casanovadinerirelais.comCanalicchio di Sopra www.canalicchiodisoprawinerelais.itCapanna Wine Relais www.capannamontalcino.comMastrojanni Relais www.mastrojanni.comLocanda Sant’Antimo www.locandasantantimo.itLe Ragnaie www.leragnaie.comPodere Il Cocco www.ilcocco.itVilla le Prata www.villaleprata.comTenuta di Argiano www.argianodimore.itRESTAURANTSAlbergo Il Giglio www.gigliohotel.comOsticcio www.osticcio.itBoccon DiVino www.boccondivinomontalcino.itVineria Le Potazzine www.lepotazzine.comAlle Logge di Piazza, Piazza del Popolo 1, 53024 MontalcinoCaffè La Fortezza, Viale della Liberta 6, 53024 MontalcinoPetto’s Pizza, Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 1, 53024 MontalcinoIl Marrucheto, Via della Stazione 7, Sant’Angelo ScaIo, 53024 MontalcinoLa Compagnia, Via Romana 27, Torrenieri, 53024 MontalcinoSan Giorgio www.ristorantepizzeriasangiorgio.comTrattoria Il Leccio www.trattoriailleccio.comIl Pelo nell’Uovo, Localita Sprugnano, 53020 San Giovanni d’AssoLambardi, Via Soccorso Saloni 54, 53024 MontalcinoForno Giuliani, Via…1 min
Decanter|February 2020PROSECCO SUPERIORE: MY TOP 20Prosecco Superiore PROSECCO SUPERIORE: MY TOP 20 Following a visit to the picturesque communes of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, Rebecca Gibb MW looks at the latest trends in Italy’s most famous sparkling wine and picks out 20 of her top Prosecco Superiore wines to try The capital city of Azerbaijan was an unlikely location to safeguard the future of the Prosecco Superiore zone, but in Baku in July 2019 the steep hills of Valdobbiadene and the rolling slopes of Conegliano were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. Verdant terraces curve across its slopes and Inca temple-like mounds, looking down upon more orderly rows of vines on the plains towards Treviso. It is not only higher elevations that distinguish these hillside vineyards from their flatland counterparts (and their UNESCO stamp of approval) but…7 min
Decanter|February 2020Steven Spurrier’s FINE WINE WORLDFROM THE CELLARChâteau Rieussec, Sauternes 1CC 1990The wines, all presented by members, at the 185th dinner of the Saintsbury Club last October surpassed our usually high expectations. A grandiose Pol Roger 2002 Vintage Champagne from magnums set the tone for two fine Chablis – magnums of Jean Dauvissat’s 1er Cru Fourchaume 2013 and Moreau-Naudet’s Grand Cru Valmur 2012 – while the two clarets that accompanied the fillet of beef were even more impressive. Château Léoville-Barton 1996 (presented by Anthony Barton) was superbly classic St-Julien, totally Barton with a decade and more in front of it, and better in my view than the Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 1995, which was fine but still tight. Then came theChâteau Rieussec 1990(presented by Michael Broadbent and Merlin Holland), amber gold in colour, marvellously rich…2 min
Decanter|February 2020THE WORLD’S BEST WINE FESTIVALSWine festivals THE WORLD’S BEST WINE FESTIVALS Wine festivals today are worth travelling for, as they can feature everything from lavish dinners cooked by celebrity chefs to Alpine skiing in top resorts. Fiona Beckett shares her pick of a full calendar of great wine celebrations around the world With a growing audience of wine lovers, wine festivals are big business these days. Almost every wine region hosts its own celebration. Often they are combined with food to create a grand gastronomic experience. Others, such as the annual Marciac jazz festival in France (see p65), combine wine with music. Some are inspired by a single grape variety. Pinot Noir seems to be the most popular, with big Pinot celebrations in Oregon, Alsace and the Hemel-en-Aarde region of South Africa. Riesling also…10 min
Decanter|February 2020PINOT NOIR AND SINGLE-SITE EXPRESSIONPinot Noir is the quintessential interpreter of terroir due to its ability to capture nuances of the land where it is grown. It is a demanding variety, both in the vineyard and the cellar. As long as vines are well established, yields kept at suitable levels and there is no excessive use of winemaking trickery, it is capable of retaining varietal expression, exuding elegance and conveying a sense of place.A single vineyard can have an essential impact on the wine’s character. Pinot Noir from loess soils is often lighter and elegant; granite soils contribute to wines that are linear, angular and display attractive mineral notes; whereas red clay is responsible for wines that are rounder and plump. To respect single-vineyard characteristics, producers are increasingly focusing on the viticultural practices in…1 min
Decanter|February 2020MONTALCINO: a wine and food lover’s guideMONTALCINO: a wine and food lover’s guide Renowned for its world-class red wines and bucolic setting, Montalcino has much to offer tourists, but where to start? Monty Waldin shares his little black book of places to stay, eat and taste wines in this Tuscan treasure-trove destination Montalcino is a superstar wine region, fortuitously well off the beaten track. Unspoiled, with no motorway nearby, the most ubiquitous through-traffic is human-powered. Steady streams of pilgrims plod the ancient Francigena byway crossing Montalcino, heading south to Rome’s Vatican. Packs of Lycra-clad cyclists pedal themselves to exhaustion along the bumpy chalk byways of the Eroica (or ‘Heroic’) Route. And wine lovers come to taste the world’s most famed 100% Sangiovese red wines, the oak-aged Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, and its earlier-bottled, no-oak-needed sibling Rosso…8 min
Decanter|February 2020MY MONTREALMarie-Hélène Boisvert MY MONTREAL This famously bilingual city is often dubbed the ‘Paris of Canada’, and its cosmopolitan, multicultural influences and scenic backdrop make it a must-visit for any travelling foodie, as Marie-Hélène Boisvert reports There is no denying the eclectic vibe of Montreal. Vast cultural diversity has greatly influenced the flair and innovation of our gastronomic creations – one of Montreal’s greatest strengths. You can dine somewhere new every night of the year, never visiting the same place twice. In the last decade, Montreal has become one of the most renowned gastronomic destinations in the world, due in part to its famous chefs – names such as Normand Laprise, Martin Picard, Marie-Fleur St-Pierre and Charles-Antoine Crête. Montreal is a mecca for poutine: a Quebecois dish made of fresh-cut french…2 min
Decanter|February 2020NORTHERN RHONES: THE 2010 VINTAGEThe winter of 2009/2010 was exceptionally cold and spring came late. Conditions weren’t perfect; there was localised hail and minor outbreaks of downy and powdery mildew after a damp spring. Poor fruit set further thinned out the crop, and final yields were small. Summer 2010 was hot but not excessive, and producers picked the grapes late into the autumn under fine, dry conditions. At the time, many considered the southern Rhône to have fared better than the north, but the resulting wines show that 2010 is a superlative vintage for both.The Côte-Rôties we tasted were almost all ready to drink now, and most will happily last until 2025, some past 2030. Cornas from 2010 is approaching readiness, but for the best wines hold off until at least 2022, and these…1 min
Decanter|February 2020CASTILLON 2016Check the names of the investors in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux over the past 20 years, and you’ll see that the region clearly has something to offer. Right Bank heavyweights such as Stephan von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière (at Château d’Aiguilhe), Gérard Perse of Pavie (Clos Lunelles), the Bécots of Beau-Séjour Bécot (Château Joanin Bécot), Denis Durantou of L’Eglise-Clinet (Château Montlandrie) and the Thienponts of Le Pin (L’Hêtre) have been seduced by the region – and with good reason. The 2,300ha appellation is basically a prolongation of the St-Emilion hillslopes, with vineyard prices that are 10 times less expensive. The appellation takes its name from the riverside town of Castillon-la-Bataille, the scene of the 1453 battle that ended English rule in Aquitaine. Until the 1930s the wines were…7 min
Decanter|February 2020WEEKDAY WINESWEEKDAY WINES Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? The Decanter team has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK priced at £25 or less Chapel Down, Sparkling Bacchus, England NV 89 £19.99 Majestic Bacchus is fast becoming England’s signature grape, and this sparkling version is an easy introduction into English fizz. It may not have the cachet of the Champagne varieties, but it offers gooseberry scents with smooth notes of cut grass, lime and juicy stone fruits. Slips down easily. JB Alcohol 12% Delaire Graff, Chenin Blanc Reserve, Swartland, South Africa 2018 92 £16.95-£18 The Secret Cellar, Twelve Green Bottles A delicious, complex wine from 30- to 40-year-old vines. With an…7 min
Decanter|February 2020Time ripe for alternative regionsBelow-the-radar wines in regions such as Piedmont, Tuscany and the Rhône could be worth a closer look early in 2020, as top-end Bordeaux and Burgundy hit turbulence.Italian wines with high scores ‘continue to offer buyers lower-cost access into the fine wine market’, said a recent Liv-ex report.Current weakness in the overall fine wine market, principally affecting top Bordeaux and Burgundy, may offer collectors an opportune moment to examine some of the sector’s underdog regions.‘We’ve been watching Piedmont quite closely,’ said Miles Davis of Wine Owners cellar management and trading platform.He said there was ‘plenty to go at’ beyond high-profile names such as Giacomo Conterno or Gaja, but that collectors will still need to do their research.Piedmont prices have largely been solid rather than showing huge gains, said Davis. Prices might…2 min
Decanter|February 2020Decanter fine wine price watchBelow are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market.Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in green indicate those prices which have increased since last month, whilst the numbers in red have decreased.BORDEAUX PRICESTHE LIV-EX 100 INDEXIndex level at end of November 2019304.42|-1.28%The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although…1 min
Decanter|February 2020JIM BARRY, THE ARMAGH 1999A legend because…The heartland of Australian Shiraz is usually considered to be the Barossa Valley, but other regions have shown they can also produce outstanding wines from this variety. Jim Barry, a Clare Valley pioneer, established his winery in 1959. In 1968 he planted Shiraz vines in the Armagh region, which led to the creation of The Armagh 17 years later. The name is a tribute to the place and to the Irish settlers who came here from 1849 onwards. Barry intended the wine to be a challenger to the iconic Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace, and it was priced between them on release. The Armagh has been made in most vintages, but there were years when none was bottled under that label: 1986, 2003, 2011.Looking backBy 1999,…3 min
Decanter|February 2020THE FACTS (2018 figures)THE FACTS (2018 figures) Cornas Appellation granted 1938 Area 150ha in production Average yield 33hl/ha Grapes Red wine only appellation 100% Syrah Côte-Rôtie Appellation granted 1940 Area 319ha in production Average yield 40hl/ha Grapes Red wine only minimum 80% Syrah, with a maximum 20% Viognier Hermitage Appellation granted 1937 Area 136ha in production Average yield 38hl/ha; 70% red wine, 30% white wine in 2018 Grapes Reds Minimum 85% Syrah, with a maximum 15% Roussanne and/or Marsanne Whites Roussanne and/or Marsanne permitted…1 min
Decanter|February 2020CASTILLON 2016Expert’s choice CASTILLON 2016 On the east of the Right Bank’s grouping of Merlot-centric appellations, the slopes of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux are home to some of the region’s best-value reds. James Lawther MW picks his top 18 Check the names of the investors in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux over the past 20 years, and you’ll see that the region clearly has something to offer. Right Bank heavyweights such as Stephan von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière (at Château d’Aiguilhe), Gérard Perse of Pavie (Clos Lunelles), the Bécots of Beau-Séjour Bécot (Château Joanin Bécot), Denis Durantou of L’Eglise-Clinet (Château Montlandrie) and the Thienponts of Le Pin (L’Hêtre) have been seduced by the region – and with good reason. The 2,300ha appellation is basically a prolongation of the St-Emilion hillslopes,…6 min
Decanter|February 2020Time ripe for alternative regionsMarket watch Time ripe for alternative regions All the important fine wine investment news, compiled by Chris Mercer Below-the-radar wines in regions such as Piedmont, Tuscany and the Rhône could be worth a closer look early in 2020, as top-end Bordeaux and Burgundy hit turbulence. Italian wines with high scores ‘continue to offer buyers lower-cost access into the fine wine market’, said a recent Liv-ex report. Current weakness in the overall fine wine market, principally affecting top Bordeaux and Burgundy, may offer collectors an opportune moment to examine some of the sector’s underdog regions. ‘We’ve been watching Piedmont quite closely,’ said Miles Davis of Wine Owners cellar management and trading platform. He said there was ‘plenty to go at’ beyond high-profile names such as Giacomo Conterno or Gaja, but that…2 min
